Esme Carr runs Deserted Cactus, a plant-based, no-menu, one-cook, Caribbean-inspired café tucked away in Holdrons Arcade. She cooks up home style comfort food each Thursday and Saturday and has a dedicated following, meaning Deserted Cactus regularly sells out before a day’s trading is over.

Esme’s journey to Holdrons Arcade was an unexpected one. The opportunity to establish a café in amongst this eclectic retail corridor was initially presented to a friend, who then passed it on to Esme. What began as a fortunate accident has blossomed into a seven-year-long relationship with the area, where Deserted Cactus has become a beloved staple.

Being part of Holdrons Arcade and Copeland Park has been transformative for Esme. Cheffing can be lonely work, so she cherishes the face-to-face connections she’s made with fellow food enthusiasts through this one woman operation where she is head chef, maître d’ and everything in between. The Peckham and Holdrons community has in turn brought Deserted Cactus to life, creating a relaxed atmosphere where people can share in her love for food, something she says that online interactions could never replicate.

Upon visiting the café, it’s immediately clear that Esme’s passion for food runs deep. She finds joy in eating, cooking, and sharing meals with others. It is this love for food, and everything it brings together, that is the driving force behind Deserted Cactus and a massive reason why it has lasted so long in a continually changing area.

Looking to the future, Esme plans to explore different cuisines around the world (peek her YouTube channel for some amazing East Asian recipes) and as for Deserted Cactus, she envisions it remaining a cherished part of Peckham and Holdrons Arcade, where it has found its home. Esme’s conteness with the cafe’s journey so far is clear and she’s truly found a rhythm that works for her and leaves plenty of room for experimentation. “I’m excited to continue sharing my culinary creations with the community that I love.”

For a taste of truly special home cooking, visit Deserted Cactus in Units 23 & 25, Holdrons Arcade on Thursday and Saturday lunchtimes 1-4pm. Whether you’re vegan or simply a lover of good food, Esme’s Caribbean-inspired dishes are sure to leave you craving more.

Words: Salma Ali